Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
